Long before Walt Disney visited central Florida, and long before Disney Springs opened a couple of years ago, a tiny fishing town north of Orlando was one of the top Florida tourists attractions. The town, Dunnellon, Florida, is relatively unchanged since its heyday. The town of fewer than 2,000 residents is not filled with hipster stores or farm-to-table restaurants. There are no quaint bed & breakfast inns, but instead – very dated but functional 1950s fish camps and motels. What Dunnellon does have is two natural wonders that are superior to anything that man (including Disney) can make. I often wonder if Walt had visited this area if Walt Disney World might have been located about 90 miles northwest of Orlando. Perhaps it is better that it remains off-the-beaten path.

Rainbow springs

There are many springs to enjoy in areas north of Orlando, but Rainbow Springs is a true paradise. With crystal clear water that goes down 250 feet, the springs are now a popular watering hold and part of the River Springs State Park. In the 1930s, the springs became one of Florida’s first theme parks (along with Silver Springs and Cypress Gardens), complete with a hotel and a zoo.

But the main attractions were the glass bottom boats and submarine boats (decades before Seven Leagues Under the Sea) that allowed guests to walk below water level with a clear view of river life and underwater “mermaid shows.” Of other special note, the original theme park also had hanging gondola rides that it referred to as monorails! Once major highways were built and traffic diverted to Disney World, the park’s attendance dropped dramatically, and it closed in 1974. (Florida State Parks, 2019)

FACT: rainbow springs discharges 493 million gallons of water a day.

Finally, the state purchased and reopened Rainbow Springs as a state park in the 1990s. The most popular activity is swimming in the 72 degree (year-round) waters of the headsprings. Today, park visitors also enjoy snorkeling, gardens and hiking. Along the hiking trails, one can still spot remnants of the old zoo. Rentals are available for paddleboards, kayaks, canoes and tubes to take one a little further down into the Rainbow River itself, where river otters play and an occasional alligator can be spotted. The length of the river is 5.7 miles. Admission to the park is $2. Tubing is $5 per car.

The state park also has a campground that is on the river, but a few miles away from the headwaters. The campground offers full hook up, river access, and a recreation hall. Summer rates for most sites are $30 per night.

The short, pristine river has many small waterfront homes, most of them built in the 1940s-1960s. Recent efforts by developers to build on remaining lands have been met with outrage by neighbors and conservation groups. In 2018, the Southwest Florida Water Management District purchased 115 acres of waterfront land adjacent to the springs and state park for $3.7 million from a developer. (The Gainesville Sun, 2017). This effectively halted a major development, which would have had a detrimental effect of water quality and dramatically changed the landscape of the Rainbow River.

withlacochee river

So where does the rainbow river end up when it ends 5.7 miles from its headwaters? Still in Dunnellon, the Rainbow River converges with the Withlacochee River, and the water and river life changes dramatically. The Withlacochee water is dark and tannin-stained, yet brimming with wildlife, birds, and fish. In addition to its beauty, the Withlacochee is renowned for being one of only a few rivers in the world that flows from south to north.

Growing up, it was the Withlacochee that my grandfather talked about, his eyes lighting up with a longing to return to the wild Florida river. Every year in the 1940 and 1950s, he and his brothers met up with their families for vacations on the river. Both the men and women spent day after day fishing and boating, returning in the evenings to cook their catch and sit under the stars.

EATING, LODGING & RENTALS in DUNNELLON

River Ratz Cafe – Relaxed joint on the Withlacochee River with outdoor dining and live music. Closed on Mondays and Tuesday.  Has canoe and cabin rentals.

Blue Gator Tiki Bar and Gator Den Motel – Another relaxed place serving seafood with live music on the Withlacochee, just about 3/4 mile from the Rainbow River. Also has newly-constructed motel on the site of older fish camp, with rooms starting at $109 per night. Airboat tours are offered daily, and pontoon boats are available for rent, staring at $150 for four hours.

Rainbow Springs State Park – offers tube, kayak, canoe rentals, along with swimming in the headsprings, and hiking

Rainbow Rivers Resort – very rustic and affordable lodging in basic cabins, with amenities such as swimming pool, recreation center, free canoes, pontoon boat rentals