It’s no wonder that this was the chosen land for America’s wealthiest in the late 1800s until the Great Depression. With a mild climate, abundance of wildlife, and pristine beaches, the island brought retreat from the everyday stresses of a burgeoning industrial society. “The world of industry and commerce, of railroads and factories, of trusts, mergers, and monopolies, is something wholly apart from this island paradise,” said an article in a 1904 Munsey Magazine. While it no longer takes $1 million in wealth to access the island, the magical serenity remains for new generations.
Shrimp and Sand Dollars
Expansive beaches on the east side bring morning sunsets and hundreds of sand dollars. Shrimp boats abound close to shore, bringing in fresh wild catch for local restaurants. On the west side, boats and yachts glide down the intercoastal waterway, with idyllic sunsets interrupted only by a four-mile-wide marsh and flocks of cranes and seagulls. I first visited the island in third grade, and found enough “dead” sand dollars to take one back to everyone in my homeroom. More than 40 years later, my annual pilgrimage always includes a long daily beach walk to continue the collection.
mother Nature’s Finest
At 13 miles long, Jekyll Island is shaped like a foot. State regulations have prevented it from becoming overdeveloped. This means that it has a near-perfect blend of maritime forests, lodging, and restaurants. The vast majority of modest homes are in neighborhoods built in the 1950s and 1960s. During daytime hours, locals and visitors enjoy a well-maintained bike path that goes all the way around the island’s edge. After two or three miles of forest and historic remnants from the 1700s, the path emerges on the Atlantic. The recently redeveloped town center is just a few minutes further, with its hipster markets and and quaint restaurants.
Wildlife seems infinite. On any given day, I see at least three dozen deer in the forests or the historic district. Alligators sun on the edges of the golf course ponds, and a bald eagle makes its nest near the vintage putt-putt course. And then, of course, there is Marty Jekyll. Marty is the most famous of the many cats who make their home in the historic district. Shopowners and Jekyll natives care for and protect the felines and maintain Marty’s Facebook page.
When the Sun Goes Down on this Sleepy Little Town
When we are there for a week, we usually leave the island only once for dinner. And that’s for a visit to the more hectic and larger St. Simons. Of the eateries on Jekyll, among the most scenic are the Beach House and Zachry’s Riverhouse .
The cute Beach House is kind of hit and miss on the food and the service, but the outdoor area is oceanside and has an expansive yard for kids to explore and play. It’s probably one of the best places to watch fall football, with multiple tvs and a bar on the inside.
Zachry’s is part of a dreamy marina with access down a long road thick with trees and Spanish moss. It’s an overnight stop for many boats headed north or south along the intercoastal. My favorite at Zachary’s is the peel-and-eat shrimp with hot (spicy) butter sauce. We always, always go to Zachary’s.
A close competitor for fresh shrimp is the Jekyll Island Wharf, now owned by the Jekyll Island Club Hotel. We love the outdoor area of the wharf, with its casual vibe and regular live entertainment.
For splendid shrimp and grits and southern food, head over to the Driftwood Bistro. Hidden within the 1970s Villas by the Sea, a rich array of delightfully-fresh food makes up for a quirky, dated atmosphere. During peak season, there is often a long wait, but an exceptional poolside bar and winding boardwalks leading to the beach, make the waiting time more than bearable.
Around 11 pm or midnight, the island seems to go to sleep. But this is an illusion. I’ve spent many years with friends taking a midnight walk in the historic district (I usually stay in the Jekyll Island Club Hotel). That’s when we see more deer, raccoons and island kitties than we do during the day. We also like to venture down to peer in the windows of the uninhabited Hollybourne Cottage, considered to be the most haunted place on the island.
Why I Don’t Camp on Jekyll Island and My Favorite Hotel in the World
Sometimes the Jekyll Island Campground will make some sort of top-10 list. Currently, I believe it is a little over-rated. While it is probably the most affordable lodging choice on the island, it is a far cry from glamping. Sites are rather cramped in an overgrown environment and the facilities need updated. There’s no swimming pool (a necessity for much of the year in my view), and little in the way of organized campground activities. Nevertheless, the campground stays booked up much of the year. On the plus side, it is across the street from the park with the fishing pier, beautiful Driftwood Beach and horseback rides. An expansion and renovation is allegedly in the works, and I am hopeful for its makeover. Nevertheless, my true love is the Jekyll Island Club Hotel.
The Jekyll Island Club Hotel
In spite of its grandeur and majesty, the historic Jekyll Island Club Hotel can often be affordable. Lowest rates during weekdays and the winter start around $133, and rarely exceed $280 even during peak times. However, due to its historic structure, room sizes and types vary wildly, and some suites are significantly higher. I prefer Riverfront rooms (there are only four with balconies), but also like the rooms in the pet-friendly Sans Souci Cottage.
Wait – how could a beach girl prefer an intercoastal-facing resort over those directly on the Atlantic, such as the beautiful Westin Resort (a good choice as well)? Some of it can’t even be put into words, but here are a few reasons:
- The history. It’s not just something to look at here, you can nearly feel the presence of the Rockefellers, the Vanderbilts, the men who started the Federal Reserve Bank on property, and the children who spent their winters here. In fact, I’ve never been to another place where I felt so immersed in another time.
- The service. Since the resort was taken over by new owners after many decades, I’ve observed that this has slipped just a little. Still, there’s not a better feeling than arriving under that portico with a team of smiling bellhops greeting you like a long-lost sister. Many of them have been there for more than a decade.
- The porches. Porches are everywhere (it’s the old south, remember). They are filled with rocking chairs and views of sunsets, arriving friends, and late-night wedding guests making their way back to their rooms.
- The pool. Okay, there’s not a cave or even a slide or a diving board. But this is the pool from the 1920s original club, and it is large, cool, and the center of the afternoons at the resort. Waitresses serve both food and adult beverages until the sun goes down.
- The wharf (pictured earlier). Just a few steps from the pool is the historic wharf, where boats arrived long before an automobile causeway was built connecting the island to Brunswick. It’s a convenient and fabulous place to chill out with some shrimp, a beer, and a little island music.
- The historic district. On the back side of the property is a row of shops, housed in historic outhouses. This is not Disney Springs, y’all, and you’re not going to find a crowd here. The exception to the quiet would be an event, such as the famous Shrimp and Grits Festival. Instead, you’ll find a treasure trove of local art, food, chocolates, and friendly shop-owners.
A place for all seasons
Even with the heat and the no-seeums (tiny, pesky bugs), summer is still the most popular time of the year. Yet, swimming weather lasts well into the fall and returns early in the spring. While you won’t find a lot of pumpkin spice and sweaters in the fall, you will find the Shrimp & Grits festival, arguably the most popular event of the year.
Winter brings holiday lights and romantic carriage rides. January and February are when the island really gets quiet, but I love those long oceanfront walks – sometimes being the only person on the beach.
