This is that dreamy, wind-in-your-hair kind of place that people actually leave Florida for. Most of us from the deep south have known about Lake Martin all of our lives (not to be confused with Lake Logan Martin). It’s the “blue skies” that Lynyrd Skynard sang about and was the choice for a $10 million vacation home by the notorious Richard Scrucci, former HealthSouth CEO. In 1952, Hank Williams stayed in a lakeside cabin here and wrote his last recorded song, “Kaw-Liga.” And although it’s only 30 minutes from Auburn, it was here that we once chatted with former Alabama star quarterback AJ McCarron (a super nice fellow) in the pizza line at famous Chuck’s.
How Lake Martin Became the mothership of Southern Lakes
An hour or two on this lake brings one of those rare occurrences when time truly stands still. This is it. We’ve arrived. As you make a stop at Chimney (Acapolco) Rock (make the 60-foot dive if you dare), classic party music is playing and the celebration is everywhere. And what is everybody celebrating and why? Just being at Lake Martin. It’s all anybody needs. Seriously, even northern prepsters find it as sweet as Aunt Opal’s iced tea.
No doubt, there are other breathtaking lakes in the South, each with its own flavor of glory. One of the finest resorts I’ve ever stayed at was on Lake Oconee in Georgia. And then there’s Lake Burton, with its backdrop of the Blue Ridge Mountains and vacationing celebrities. But Lake Martin stands alone for its combination of pure spirit, fun, legend and clear, blue waters. As one of the world’s largest man-made bodies of water, it’s a tourism mecca that holds its own against the appeal of the gulf coast just three hours south. Thirty years ago, you could have bought a nice cottage on Lake Martin for under $100,000. These days, those cottages are getting torn down and replaced by Southern Proper Mama houses bigger than Scrucci’s (which used to be the one we headed to by boat to gawk). Yet, a remnant of the simpler times is Wind Creek State Park and Campground.
Wind Creek State Park Premium campsites
Situated a few miles south of Alexander City, Alabama, the Wind Creek Campground is the largest state campground in America, With its recent additions, is now has more than 600 sites, making it at least comparable to the 800+ at Disney’s Fort Wilderness. Of these sites, dozens are directly on the water – and I mean directly (as in throw a float in the lake by your campsite). Hundreds of others have a good view of the water, and are within a 20-second walk.
flashback to fort wilderness-Style fun in the 1970s
Tucked into a nook is a swimming beach with a roped off area that reminds me a bit of Fort Wilderness back in the 1970s. A difference is that Lake Martin is deep and clear, with little vegetation. Even at the peak of summer, the water has that cool and refreshing quality that negates the need for a chlorine swimming pool. We planned to stay for two hours, and had to bribe the kids away after three. And this was after we had spent part of the previous day eating lunch and swimming at the beach at The Landing at Parker Creek.
Now, Lake Martin is just far enough north that alligator sightings are extremely rare. Okay, there are a few snakes (I haven’t seen them), but they just aren’t that into you. It’s truly a place where worry fades as fast as a summer afternoon storm.
singing sweet home alabama all summer long
So here’s the strange thing about this popular campground. Getting those premium 50-amp sites right on the water is just about as difficult as getting a site at Disney’s Fort Wilderness on Christmas Day. The easiest, but most expensive way to get one is to make a full-week reservation (you are able to select a specific site online). But at $56 a night, this will add up to more than $400 for the week. Alternately, if a lakefront site is available when you arrive, then you can upgrade your previous reservation. However, on summer weekends, this is unlikely to happen. There appear to be several RV owners who set up their motorhome or travel trailer for the entire summer – as a temporary lakehouse of sorts. Sounds like a good idea to me.
Let’s say you only want to go for three days, and don’t want to pay for an entire week. Many of the sites that are not on the lake do have a terrific lake view (like the ones on the right pictured above). And they range from about $22-$29. Those with kids may want to stay near the large playground near Area C. This is where dozens of kids congregate all day and well past dark on bikes, skateboards, and make new summer friends and memories that shape us forevermore.
cheeseburgers in paradise
It’s about a 15-minute drive to Winn-Dixie in Alexander City, and there is also a glorious farmers market on Saturday mornings with fresh vegetables and local meats. At the campground is a marina with basic foods and supplies. A food truck sits at the main playground each morning, and offers coffee, biscuits and omelettes. But across from the beach (by the fishing pier) is a hidden gem. Cream of the Creek is an old-school snack bar, with laid-back, friendly service, solid fast food and reasonable prices. In addition to a standard selection of Mayfield ice cream, Cream of the Creek also serves hamburgers, hot dogs, corn dogs, and something called pickle lickers.
For going out to eat, we have always loved taking a boat out on the water to one of several restaurants on the water. The most popular may be Chuck’s Pizza, which combines pizza with a honky-tonk atmosphere and karaoke. On Saturday nights, the wait for a boat parking spot can be up to an hour. About 15 minutes by boat from Chuck’s is Kowaliga’s, the historic restaurant from the 1950s that has withstood fires, changes of names and ownership. Our favorite newcomer is The Landing at Parker Creek. It combines a perfectly chill lakeside fun concept (outdoor games, beach, dog-friendly) with delish burgers, blackened mahi mahi, and a nice selection of alcohol.
Wait, there’s more
Wind Creek State Park has plenty to do beyond the summer months. There are miles of trails, an equestrian area of the campground, archery and a zip line course. An old tower located in the picnic areas is open for climbing, and rewards its brave guests with a stunning view of the lake. Most recently, the park opened a cute camping-themed putt-putt course. Your ball will even land in a sewer cap on the 18th hole, reminding you of one of the great wonders of the world – the full hook-up.
