At first glance, a brief description of Savannah, Georgia sounds a little like Epcot. We’ll spend the day walking cobblestone streets, exploring nuanced cultures in romantic nooks, watching the evening lights on the water, and drinking magical concoctions and eating everything along the way. But Savannah is the real deal. In near Walt Disney fashion, it’s an idyllic planned city with every detail having a purpose. But these plans date back to the early 1700s, when James Oglethorpe persuaded the Yamacraw Indian tribe to move a little further north.

I first traveled Savannah as a child, visiting the home of Juliette Low for a Girl Scout trip. This was during a time when the historic district was run-down, and old homes that now fetch $1 -2 million were in the $30,000 range.

These days I am a frequent visitor for both work and pleasure, and am intimately aware of the both eerie and delightful push and pull that the City of Dead has on ones’s own’s soul. As John Berendt wrote in the famous novel Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, “Savannah was invariably gracious to strangers, but it was immune to their charms. It wanted nothing so much as to be left alone.” A first-time visitor will be taken by surprise by the degree to which they become quickly hypnotized, and the return guest will willingly surrender to the permeating intoxication – both figuratively and literally.

This is a walking and biking city, and one of those delicious urban areas that brings nature and architecture into an arranged marriage where love very much flourishes. You’ll pass Paula Deen’s restaurant and walk on the historic Riverfront, but if this is all you’ve done, then you haven’t been at all. That would be like going to Epcot only for a Dole Whip. Go a little further, and the only thing you may not find in sultry Savannah is sleep, as the moon nearly meets the sunrise before the city briefly finds peace.

7 am: take the boat ride across the river for an unforgettable view of savannah

Head down River Street to the Hyatt Hotel boat launch, and catch the 7 am ferry to the Westin on Hutchinson Island.  Not only are you getting a free boat ride, but a view of old Savannah that reminds me somehow of old New York, and Audrey Hepburn singing “Moon River” from a metal balcony. No wonder, as Savannah was the home of Johnny Mercer, who wrote “Moon River” along with many other classics, such as “Hooray for Hollywood.” If you happen to be staying at the Westin (a superb dog-friendly choice across the River), request a balcony room from a high floor. That’s where I’ve had the most jaw-dropping views – being able to see the parks, rooftops, and steeples for miles.

8am: Take Your Dog for a stroll Through the Squares

As soon as the birds begin singing, the city dwellers will suddenly appear with their dogs, walking past Rainbow Row and through any of the 22 squares, some of them laid out by Oglethorpe himself in the early 1700s. The squares vary in size and features, but most are shaded with ancient oaks and dotted with camellias, fountains and park benches. These squares welcome all, and you are just as likely to meet a homeless musician as you are to meet a well-known author.  Chippewa Square holds the park bench where Tom Hanks sat as Forrest Gump telling the tales of his life.  You will seriously wonder why every town was not planned this way.

10am: Meet the cats at savannah’s oldest bookstore 

Let’s assume if you’ve made it this far, then you must like to read just a little bit (and therefore, we are friends). E Shaver’s Booksellers looks like it belongs on Disney’s Main Street USA, but feels like it belongs in Ernest Hemingway’s garden house. The tales of the books seem to nearly come alive, giving visitors in the shop a feeling of being instantly transported to a dreamy renaissance of culture and immunity from real-world woes. Friendly cats, cozy reading nooks, rare titles, and delicious tea next door make this a destination unto itself.

 

11am: be spiritually awed by the cathedral of john the baptist

Just a few blocks away from the bookstore is the oldest Catholic Church in Georgia. The 19th century Gothic structure is breathtakingly ornate and comparable to the beauty of historic structures in Europe. As long as a service is not going on, you are free to enter during the day, although your visit should be quiet and reverent. Interiors include elaborate stained glass. Of important note is that the cathedral nearly burned to the ground in the late 1800s, only to be re-built nearly exactly the same. Among the church’s members have been the late author Flannery O’Connor.

Noon: Head to TYBEE ISLAND WITH A QUIRKY STOP FOR LUNCH

Tybee Island lacks the crystal clear water of Florida’s panhandle or the glitz of Miami Beach, and makes up for this in its sheer refusal to modernize. There are no towering condos, golf courses, or hipster boutiques. But therein lies its charm. With wide beaches, a few surf shops and tacky souvenir stores, it’s a throwback to the simpler times of the 70s. It’s lack of pretense has made it attractive for celebrities such as Sandra Bullock, whose beach cottage she purchased in 2001 is now on the market for $6.5 million.

On the way to your beach walk, stop by the laid-back Crab Shack, for more kitsch, complete with a live alligator lagoon, open-air dining on the water, sea kitties, and a little zoo of talking birds.

 

 

2Pm: Pay your respects at Colonial and Bonaventure cemeteries

Historic (and allegedly haunted) Colonial Cemetery is one of the more visible reasons that Savannah is considered to be the most haunted cities in America. Built in 1750, the cemetery holds the bodies of more than 7000 who died in an approximately 100-year period, with at least 700 of them victims of the yellow fever. But here’s the thing (and maybe the reason there is so much drinking in Savannah), the part of the cemetery that you see is only a piece of it. The rest is covered up by surrounding streets and buildings, the sidewalks you are walking on – as there was simply no more room. Within the cemetery lie many important Georgians, including governors and war heroes. The cemetery closed before the beginning of the Civil War, but Union soldiers allegedly looted many graves and changed headstone dates so that some people had lived more than 400 years. The graveyard is a highlight of some of the city’s evening haunted tours.

Further down the road (driving is better) is the Bonaventure Cemetery, made famous by the book and movie Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. This is a large cemetery of more than 100 acres with elaborate tombs, mausoleums, and graves resting beneath the shade of the oaks and Spanish moss. Among the most famous gravesites are those of songwriter Johnny Mercer and Gracie Watson, a 6-year-old who suddenly died after being photographed in her new Easter clothes.  Note that you can no longer visit at midnight – the gates close at 5pm.

4PM: Spend happy hour (and the Night) at the Brice

There are more expensive places in Savannah and more historic ones, but nothing beats the Brice for pure dog-friendly (they stay free), hipster fun. The old converted Coca-Cola factory has decor made for Instagram, free bikes, and a location on the far east end of Bay Street that puts it close enough for convenience without the touristy cheese. Oh, did I mention that there is all-you-can-drink free wine every day from 4-5 pm for guests? It’s good wine, and you can carry your cup with you as you head to the next destination. If you end up a little boozy in Savannah, then someone will likely offer you more.

630PM: walk the plank at the pirate’s house

Just across the street from the Brice Hotel is the oldest house in Georgia, now a restaurant called the Pirate’s House. For a fancier experience, consider Elizabeth’s on 37th or Alligator Soul. But eating here is akin to Disney’s Pirates of the Caribbean being a restaurant. In the 1700s, the house became an inn, and was frequented by pirates who used the buildings underground tunnels to capture new sailors they had found in the bar. The legend is that the pirate mentioned in the book Treasure Island died in the upstairs bedroom. Along with period and pirate costumed wait staff, diners will enjoy a nice selection of seafood and southern cuisine.

800PM; take a ghost tour in a hearse or on a pedicab

Now that you’ve had some beverages, it’s time to call a pedicab or a hearse. Pedicabs are one of Savannah’s best ways to travel in the evening, with a cyclist pulling you and your date/friend/kid in a comfortable rolling seat. Most of the time, pedicabs do not have a charge for going from place to place – you simply tip them a nice amount. However, you can ask for special ghost or other tours for a charge. Another popular tour in Savannah is the ghost tour in a Hearse.  It’s a bit of a wild ride, but a lot of fun with friends (to do once) for $20.

11PM: Rooftop Drinks on top of the Bohemian

This is about the time I go to bed (or sit on the balcony with a couple of best friends), but many of my comrades traditionally do a late night in Savannah at the Bohemian Hotel or on top of the Homewood Suites. These celebrations go fairly late into the wee hours, and may involve multiple stops. Luckily, the pedicabs work very late.

 

I hope you have a fabulous time on Day 1 of your Savannah escape. In reality, it’s unlikely you’ll get through all 10 of these (though possible), and you can stretch them out over a weekend.  Nevertheless, in a few weeks, I’ll follow up with a Day 2 that is less of a whirlwind and includes some places to linger longer.

Related: On Moving Forward and A View from Georgia’s #1 Campground