I scowled when Captain Bacon reminded me that I was no longer a spring chicken. It didn’t much matter that it was 94 degrees on the third of July, I was going to climb to the top of Stone Mountain. And hopefully, the other six family members would tag along. This was the most recent of our many camping (RV) trips to Georgia’s Stone Mountain, which is an absolute majestic wonder, but deeply scarred by its history as a centerpiece for white supremacy.

The mountain itself is estimated to be about 15 billion years old, and was the world’s largest supplier of granite during much of the 20^th century. A central point of controversy today is what to do with the stunning and huge relief sculpture on the side of the mountain. The 42-foot deep relief features Confederate heroes, and was initially created with the clear purpose of reaffirming white supremacy in the South. Early plans also considered memorializing the KKK on or within the mountain as well, but did not come to fruition. (Smithsonian Magazine, 2017) One question now is whether or not the artwork can remain without glorifying injustice and inequality, and if so what should be changed or adapted in order to provide a balanced and educational experience.

Stone Mountain Campground

An estimated 4 million people visit Stone Mountain Park each year, which is a substantial number, considering that about 20 million people visit the Magic Kingdom each year. Like Disney World, Stone Mountain has many areas, and most people don’t visit them all during a visit. A small “theme park”-like area includes a village with candy stores, restaurants, putt-putt, a railroad train, a large ropes adventure course, a water feature, and other attractions. Tucked on the lake about two miles away is a 250-site campground, which makes it nearly 1/3 the size of Disney World’s Fort Wilderness.

The campground is divided into areas by color , and each section is very different. The map can be terribly deceiving because it appears that the lakeside sites would be preferable. However, most these areas are hilly, bumpy and cramped, and not ideal for many RVs. The best sites, in my opinion, by far – are the purple sites These are located by the store, pavilion and pool. Of these, my favorites are those in the inner loop because they provide an instant large backyard, which is wonderful for playing kickball or other games with the neighbors. The purple sites are also significantly more expensive. An alternative to the purple area are the newer yurt sites, which are near the purple area, sit right on the lake, and are air-conditioned.

What I love most about this campground:

• The flat, grassy yard inside the purple loop
• The free coffee, juice, donuts, and cheese Danishes every morning in the pavilion
• The natural ease of getting to know one’s neighbors in the purple loop
• The Sunday church services in the pavilion that only last 30 minutes
• Going fishing on the pristine lake
• The small convenience store actually has a few items that one can make a meal of (and there’s a grocery store about 4 miles away).
• The decks and gas grills that are part of every “purple” site
• The nearby grist mill

The comfort stations are not bad – relatively clean, most of the time. Internet is supposed to be provided but I have never gotten it to work reliably (and that’s good, too). Because anyone can pay $15 to get into Stone Mountain, this also means that anyone can come to the campground and drive through. The only time my suspicions have ever been aroused by visitors was during the Fourth of July period.

THE MOUNTAIN CLIMB

After a postcard-perfect family night that included a steak and corn cookout, card games, and some other overindulgences, it was time to head to the bottom of the mountain. Captain Bacon and the others tried to suggest other ideas, but I reminded everyone that this had been part of the plan all along. A hike is part of all of our camping trips as it is the salve for a malnourished soul that has been confined for too long.

I’ve climbed this mountain many times, but today was different. It was not yet noon, and the temperatures were already approaching 93. The humidity was thick and the breeze non-existent. It was so hot that day that the air in the car never got even remotely cool during the 5-minute ride.

So the trail to the top of Stone Mountain begins with a small incline that increases dramatically as you ascend the mountain. The climb is relatively easy on an average day, except for the navigation of rocks along various parts. We were about 1/3 up and 15 minutes in when every one of us had drank almost all of our water, grossly underestimating how quickly we would start to become dehydrated. By the time we reached the halfway point, we all (even the young ones) stopped for a brief rest at a small covered pavilion. We were all panting, thirsty, dripping with sweat – but I was clearly in the worst shape, with a very flushed face and some dizziness. Captain Bacon asked if I wanted return to the bottom of the mountain. “I have to move forward. I cannot go back,” I insisted. As Jimmy Buffet said, “Breathe in. Breathe out. Move on.”

The rest of the walk got increasingly worse. Near the top it becomes so steep that handrails have been placed to provide something to help one pull herself onward and upward. But this last trek has no trees, and the reflection of the sun on the granite feels like hot coals. At one point, I became so weak and faint that I simply lay down on the hot mountain. I thought to myself, “well, this is a pretty good place to die.” Captain Bacon came back and pulled me along, for maybe another two or three minutes. The top is so deceiving because you think it is almost there, and then it’s another 4 or 5 minutes. Finally we made it, and while it was probably a dangerous thing to do (for someone over 45), the victory was sweet. As I looked out at the Atlanta skyline, I thought about the history of the mountain, and couldn’t help but have a sense of the ghosts of good and evil that the rock had seen over thousands of years. I turned and pointed out Red Top Mountain, far off into the horizon, where we had spent the previous Fourth of July camping at Lake Allatoona.

We devoured some water at the snack shop at the top, where the skylift drops off visitors who took the easier route. After about 15 minutes, we started our journey down, which was far more friendly than the trip up. On the way back to the campground, we stopped by the historic Georgia homes that had been moved to the park, and made a visit to the nearby petting farm to talk to the animals. Upon return, I found some white bread and bologna in the camp store. We added mayonnaise and summer tomatoes, and all agreed that they were the best bologna sandwiches we had ever had. I am certain that it was our reward for moving forward.

STONE MOUNTAIN’S QUANDRY

That night we attended the laser show at the foot of the mountain for the umpteenth time in the last 25+ years. The show attracts an extremely large crowd, particularly during a holiday period. Unfortunately, the show has not been significantly updated, and still reflects its own peculiar homage to a romanticized notion of the South, interspersed with random pictures and odd cartoons. It feels somewhat cheaply disconnected from other more authentic parts of Stone Mountain, such as the Carillon and The Old Grist Mill (pictured). All in all, the show is a wonderful thing to do once or twice (bucket list), but represents yet another opportunity for Stone Mountain to move forward without looking back.

STONE MOUNTAIN DETAILS

Price to enter park: $20 ($40 annually)
Price for all-attractions annual pass: $59
Price for purple campsite: $68 per night (special events may require package)
Miles to Walt Disney World: 452